How to Choose a Hoodie: GSM, Fabric and Fit Guide for India

The hoodie is the biggest search in Indian streetwear. Google searches for "hoodie" in India peak every year from November to January. Unlike a tee, a hoodie has to match your local winter. A hoodie that is perfect in Delhi can be too warm in Mumbai. This guide helps you choose.

#Hoodie GSM: the weight guide

GSM means grams per square metre. It is a measure of fabric weight. Hoodies use much heavier fabric than t-shirts. Read What Is GSM in T-Shirts? to learn how the number works.

GSM	Feel	Best for
240 to 280	Light, like a thick tee	Mild winters, air-conditioned offices, layering
300 to 350	Medium, the most common	Most Indian cities in winter
360 to 450	Heavy and warm	North Indian winters, hill stations
450 and higher	Very heavy, structured	Very cold places, or a premium boxy look

#French terry vs fleece

These are the two main hoodie fabrics. The difference is on the inside.

Feature	French terry	Fleece
Inside	Small loops of yarn	Loops brushed into a soft, fluffy surface
Warmth	Medium	High
Breathability	Good	Lower
Best for	Mild winters, layering, spring evenings	Cold winters
Pilling	Low	Higher, because the brushed fibres can form small balls

Loopknit is another name that some Indian brands use for french terry.

#Which hoodie for your city

Winter type	Cities (examples)	Choose
Mild	Mumbai, Chennai, Kolkata, Goa	280 to 320 GSM french terry, or a zip hoodie
Moderate	Bengaluru, Pune, Hyderabad, Ahmedabad	300 to 350 GSM french terry
Cold	Delhi, Jaipur, Chandigarh, Lucknow	350 to 450 GSM fleece
Very cold	Hill stations, Himachal, Uttarakhand, Kashmir	400 GSM fleece or more, plus layers

#Choosing the fit

Regular fit. Close to the body. It works under a jacket.
Oversized fit. Loose with dropped shoulders. It is the main streetwear look. Buy your normal size.
Boxy fit. Wide and shorter. It works well with baggy jeans and cargos.
Zip hoodie. Easy to put on and take off. It works best in mild winters, because you can open it.

#How to check hoodie quality

The hood. A good hood has two layers of fabric, so it keeps its shape.
The rib. The cuffs and the hem have a firm rib that springs back when you stretch it.
The pocket. The corners of the front pocket have extra stitches, because they take the most strain.
The drawstring. The holes for the cord have metal or stitched edges, so they do not tear.
The seams. The seams are flat and even inside.

For more fabric tests, read How to Check T-Shirt Fabric Quality.

#How to style a hoodie

Wear it with straight jeans and sneakers for an everyday look.
Layer it under a denim or bomber jacket in cold weather.
Let the hem of a tee show a little below the hoodie for a layered look.
Pair an oversized hoodie with slim or straight pants, so the outfit stays balanced.

#How to wash a hoodie

Turn it inside out and close the zip, if it has one.
Wash it in cold water with similar colours.
Do not tumble dry on high heat. Fleece pills faster with heat.
Dry it flat or folded over a rail, because a heavy wet hoodie stretches on a hanger.

#Frequently asked questions

What GSM is good for a hoodie?

For most Indian cities, 300 to 350 GSM is a good choice. Choose 350 to 450 GSM for cold North Indian winters, and 280 to 320 GSM for mild coastal winters.

Which is warmer, french terry or fleece?

Fleece is warmer. Its inside is brushed into a soft, fluffy layer that traps more air. French terry breathes better and suits mild winters.

Should I buy an oversized hoodie in my normal size?

Yes. An oversized hoodie is already cut loose. Buy your normal size and check the length in the size chart.

How do I stop my hoodie from pilling?

Wash it inside out in cold water, avoid high-heat drying, and wash it with soft clothes, not with jeans. Pilling is when small balls of fibre form on the surface.

Find your next tee

Browse 151 homegrown Indian streetwear brands, filter by style and save your favourites.

Explore the Desi Drip directory →