Japanese Streetwear: History, Styles and How to Wear It in India

Japanese streetwear is one of the fastest-rising streetwear styles in India. "Japanese streetwear" rose 140% as a search linked to "streetwear" in the last year. Indian brands also use Japanese text, waves and anime art on many tees. This guide explains where the style came from and how to wear it.

#Where Japanese streetwear came from

Modern Japanese streetwear began in the early 1990s in Harajuku, a shopping area in Tokyo. A small group of young designers opened tiny shops in the back streets of the area. People called this scene "Ura-Harajuku", which means "back-street Harajuku".

These designers loved American skate, hip-hop and punk culture. They made small batches of tees, jackets and accessories in limited numbers. Fans queued for each new release. This model of small, limited "drops" later spread to streetwear around the world. Many Indian streetwear brands use it today. Read What Is Streetwear? for the wider history.

#The main Japanese styles

Japanese streetwear is not one look. Four styles are most common.

"Amekaji" is short for "American casual". Japanese makers studied old American jeans and work clothes in detail and often made them with more care. "Boro" is a Japanese tradition of repairing old fabric with patches and running stitches. Sashiko is the simple running stitch used in boro.

#Japanese graphics on t-shirts

Many Indian tees use Japanese art and text. These are the most common motifs:

• Kanji and katakana. Kanji are Japanese characters that come from Chinese writing. Katakana is a Japanese alphabet used often for foreign words.
• The Great Wave. This woodblock print by Hokusai is from about 1831. It is very old, so artists can use it freely.
• Koi fish. Koi are a symbol of strength and success in Japanese culture.
• Dragons and tigers. These appear often on sukajan jackets and back prints.
• Oni masks. An oni is a horned demon from Japanese folk stories.
• Anime and manga art. Read Anime T-Shirts: Style Guide.

Before you wear Japanese text, check what it means. Some tees use random or wrong characters. A quick check with a translation app avoids an embarrassing message on your chest.

A sukajan is a satin bomber jacket with embroidered art on the back. The name comes from Yokosuka, a Japanese port city. American soldiers bought these jackets there after the Second World War.

#How to wear the look in India

Japanese streetwear uses many layers, but Indian heat limits layers for most of the year. Use these rules:

1. Start with a boxy or oversized tee. Choose white, black, grey, olive or navy. Read Boxy Fit vs Oversized T-Shirt.
2. Add wide trousers. Wide cotton or linen trousers, or relaxed jeans, give the classic loose shape. Read Baggy Jeans for Men.
3. Use one graphic. A single kanji, wave or koi print is enough. Keep the rest plain.
4. Add one layer in cool months. A light chore jacket or an open overshirt works from November to February.
5. Choose simple shoes. Canvas sneakers, plain leather sneakers or slip-ons suit the look.

#Fabrics that suit the look

Japanese streetwear uses natural fabrics with texture. Heavy cotton, linen, canvas, denim and corduroy are common. For Indian summers, choose linen trousers and a cotton tee of about 200 to 240 GSM. GSM means grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight. Read What Is GSM in T-Shirts?.